Fansipansies

Surrounding Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, nicknamed the Tonkinese Alps by the French. These mountains include Fansipan which at 3143m is Vietnam's highest peak... The peak is accessible all year to those in good shape and properly equipped, but don't underestimate the challenge. It is very wet, can be perilously slipery and generally cold, so you must be prepared... The round trip usually takes three to four days; some very fit and experienced hikers have made it in two days, but this is rare.

Or so quoth the Lonely Planet. We headed out for the top of Fansipan on monday at 9am reached the peak at 2pm and returned (frustratingly) the next day at 11am after only 9 1/2 hours of hiking with Justin and Kyle making it in 8 & 3/4. To accompany us on our trek we hired a guide to guide us and a porter to carry vegetables. A porter may be considered cheating but, as things turned out, it was lucky we took him. Our guide ditched us at first camp- a mere hour into the adventure- claiming that we were too fast for him. Now there's value for money...

After an hours break at base our steadfast porter ditched his bags of veg and milk and trotted on up the mountain with us as our new guide. He may not have spoken English, but without the load he easily matched our pace, showed no signs of tiring, knew the way like the back of his hand and most importantly didn't chicken out before he was a third of the way up!

The final ascent the the summit was hard, especially as Kyle and Justin were both stronger and fitter than me but a Snickers and a generous portion of peanuts kept me going and we scaled the mountain slightly before two.

'I'll look at the view after I've finished this level...'

The real challenge for me was the descent. I'm not too good at descents- my lack of co-ordination makes putting my feet in a place that won't leave me with (further) permanent brain damage quite a challenge. I spend half the time carefully planning my next step, 40% in painful free-fall and the remaining 10% recovering from the painful free-fall.

Justin and Kyle bounded down at an incredible speed, while I was left stumbling after the guide. This was coupled with the frustration that we had to get back by half past four if we wanted to make the climb in a single day. J + K arrived in camp at five, while I turned up at five fifteen, roaring for the final hours descent (and knowing that if we waited another day, my knees would be agony). Sadly our wimpy guide dissuaded us from making the final climb, claiming that it would be dark within half an hour. Despite my protestations (the last section of the climb was obviously marked, only an hour in duration and would have been easy to do with torches), the guide wouldn't budge and finally convinced us to stay for the night. It got dark two hours later. Methinks he wanted his dinner...

The next morning my knees were agony and it had rained so much during the night that our route had to be extended by two km to avoid the river. I could hardly walk and the final hobble took two excruciating hours- an hour more than it would have the day before. Disappointed but triumphant we headed back the the hotel for a slapup meal. 9 1/2 hours was tough, but four days? That's surely only for Fansipansies!

Rice wine with apple syrup- a tough end to a tough climb.